Legendary City Alexandria

“Octavian next viewed the body of Alexander, and even touched it in such a fashion that, so it is said, a piece of the nose was broken of.”

Dio Cassius

Fascinating how quiet the city grows after the fast breaks. If I wouldn’t know better I would almost hope for a quiet night:) sitting at my balcony overlooking the eastern harbour I have Ford Qaitbey – the place where the Pharos once stood till it toppled in the earthquake in 1303 – right in fronton me. So  I look at the place where one of the 7 wonders of the world once stood! I still remember when reading about them as a child they were as mystical to me as fairytales and Lord of the Rings. I also still remember the regret of knowing those lost to the world. Touching the remains now 10 m under the sea where they lie together with a mix of pharaonic, Greek and Roman ruins, in between a  tumble of Sphinxes, horses, broken columns and every day articles like amphora  was like touching a legend rising out of the past. So I guess I saw and touched the 2 that are still to be found. Does that mean I can tick the box?
Gliding along the pavements and broken columns that they are sure by now belonged to the summer palace of Cleopatra in the green light 5 m under the surface – even though one couldn’t see much with the visibility being so bad – only added to this almost surreal experience. It really is once again making childhood dreams coming true. except that I tried not to think about the water in the eastern harbour of Alexandria! That might have spoiled it a bit:P

The days left are divided by searching for what’s left of ancient Alexandria and taking in the living soul of the city at night. Wandering the maze of streets completely devoid of tourists shortly before the fast breaks when the sun is setting is as magical as discovering the ancient sites themselves. They seem so delighted that a foreigner walks through their streets that it seemed I was invited by the whole quarter: One bringing a plate with food, the next drinks the next a tea and sweets. hehe, I can just imagine the face of my mom as one of those guys took a piece of ice that had been lying on the table and dropped it into my glass of water:D

The only times when I actually saw tourists beside the 3 staying in my Hotel was of course at the sights themselves.  Having said that they were still so few that I could take in the atmosphere of the catacombs of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa pretty much undisturbed. Just because parts of it were flooded didn’t keep me from  hitching up my skirts and exploring the  chambers and corridors. It didn’t say anywhere don’t go there! Being completely on my own, only surrounded by those dark locules did actually make my heart race – Maybe I should not have watched the mummy before leaving! It was one of these things where you tell the people in the movie: Get out of there, it’s so obvious that something evil is lurking in those dark holes. Getting of the actual walk took me to places where  I could understand why the people in the movies panic. hehe, still like a child afraid of the dark! But the main chamber was just fantastic – no pics though because unlike other people I was honest and had handed in my camera:( Where else can you find an Anubis, dressed as a Roman legionary with a serpent tail of a Greek divinity called Agathodaemon. Ah, you never know what will help you in the afterlife. Talking about true syncretism! 
Last but not least not much to see of the only ancient monument still standing: Pomepey’s Pillar which isn’t actually Pompey’s but erected for a guy called Diocletian. And not much left of the Serapeum itself – destroyed by the Christians in 391 in their hatred for pagan knowledge. It’s funny how these things can still anger one after over 1600 years with a  contemporary religion. But there you go …
These visits to the ancient worlds were broken by long chats to people about the present. What worries me is how much hope people have in the change: freedom, social justice, better healthcare, less corruption … Democracy cannot but disappoint these hopes. And then what?

Oh, by the way, the tomb of Alexander is still to be found. Religious authorities stopped the excavations which assumed that it is underneath the big mosque while the underwater archeologist I met was part of a digging at the Greek cemetery where they found a huge marble chamber – according to the sources that’s how it was supposed to look like. But he summed it up as being unsuccessful. …   Imagine it to be found! Then we could see if Augustus really broke of his nose … F… Roman barbarians, I always knew it:D

Advertisement